We arrived in Chamonix and having just missed several days of stormy weather, which included 150km winds through the valley floor. The storm finally slowed the night before we were to do La Vallee Blanche, bringing cold snow up high along with calmer winds setting up what could be the perfect powder conditions.
Since it was our first time in Chamonix, we decided to hire a guide, Pierre, through Compagnie des guides de Chamonix who called us the day before to line things up. At one point he asked if we had powder skis, and judging from his tone he partly did it to make sure we were prepared for the conditions, but mostly hinting he was hoping we were on the same page about getting after it the next day.
The morning of we met Pierre at the base of the Aguille du Midi cable cars and he explained there is a chance the conditions wouldn’t be safe enough due to the amount of the recent snow/wind and current lack of visibility, but we wouldn’t know for sure until we got up there. Even though the French side of the Alps was sunny, the Italian side had a habit of staying foggier.
While we were waited for the the cable car workers to clear the lines from ice, we overheard a couple of guys from Salt Lake City talking to their guide. It turns out they already had to reschedule doing La Vallee Blanche once and this was the last chance they had at doing it before returning to the States. After some deliberation, it appeared they wanted too high chance of success before the went up and the guide wasn’t willing to provide that and backed out and they all went their seperate ways.
Waiting for the first Aguille du Midi cable car.
Once the lines were finally cleared, they loaded the first cable car and it is absolutely packed. At the mid station, workers that came from the top were unloading equipment from the other cable car while everyone was trying to pick up any clues as to what the conditions might be. After everyone shuffled over to the other car, they gave a loud “Yew!” right as the doors were closing and a wave of stoke rippled throughout the car.
Once at the top, Pierre gave us a tour of the Midi and we used the bathroom one last time, possibly as a ploy to buy more time so that others would go first and suss out the conditions. We put on our crampons and prepared to walk across the snowy ridge, carrying our packs horizontally to get through the tightly constructed tunnels towards the exit.
When we roped up outside it gave a chance for reality to sink in. Michael went first plunging waist deep into the softest powder, la peuf as it’s called, we’ve ever experienced. Once we reached a fairly flat spot in a saddle we put on our skis and floated down the first decent, it was heavenly.
First push through the soft snow and low visibility.
After discussing the low visibility, we decided the best option was to hug the rock so that we could maintain a reference point for the glaciers. Around the corner we reached rolling hills of powder as tryed our best to keep up with Pierre, each person getting fresh tracks the whole way down. Only stopping briefly for the occasional picture, we soaked in the sweeping terrain and allowed our legs to catch their breath.
Maintaining fresh lines at the front of the pack.
Pierre’s persistence continues to pay off as we stay towards the front of the pack, sometimes even taking the lead. Due to all the recent snow, we navigate the glacier field with ease before finally reaching the flat section past the toe of the glacier. The perfeect location for a quick lunch.
At one point Pierre asks if we have wives or girlfriends and we say no, not sure where this is going. Then follows with grin by saying “Sometimes when you get this lucky with the snow you have to wonder if your partner is getting lucky back home as well”.
From here we essentially cross country ski for what feels like a mile before hitting the hard pack, shark infested exit.
The start of the last push out off the Mer de Glace.
While waiting for the train, the guides talked amongst themselves how it was one of the best days of the season, and even up on the list for other seasons. The reward for taking the risk that morning had paid off.
